Fashion, Media and the Elite: Ethnography of the Exploitation of the Slovenian Transitional Media Promenade
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.21301/EAP.v8i2.7Keywords:
fashion, elite, media, audience, ethnographyAbstract
The article is an attempt to represent a particular social practice, which has, due to its currency and ubiquity in the media as of late, gained a surprisingly naturalized legitimacy within the Slovenian mediascape. After Slovenia gained its independence in 1991, two parallel processes could be observed. On the one hand, the state itself was searching for a new identity which it could project both inward and outward, it was looking for a way to communicate the national tale of itself through numerous ruling discourses of politics, economy, tourism, sports and culture. On the other hand, the transitional ruling class and the emergent social force of postsocialist rich, chosen and owners needed new elements in the process of social differentiation. Fashion became one of the reinvented refuges or simply “discoveries” of the new Slovenian political, economic and media elite, which used the media to establish a visual order of transitional social differentiation. At the core of fashion as a mode of social distinction is a ceremonialized and spectacularized display of cultural differences within a society. Elites have been caught in the social obligation of constant invention of novelty, in order to create the necessary social difference from the non-elite or the masses. Namely, difference itself has no wider social value if there is no one to notice or desire it. This article methodologically authenticates the conclusions through the analysis of specific media perceptions and an ethnography conducted among actors on these levels: producers of fashion as social distinction (the elite) vs reproducers of fashion as social distinction (the media) vs consumers of fashion as social distinction (the audience).
Downloads
References
Antonijević, Dragana. 2009. Poraženi od sistema: Struktura i značenje ličnih priča o gubitnicima hibridne tranzicije. Etno-antropološki problemi 4 (3): 47–65.
Atanasovski, Grigor. 1997. Teorija o elitah. Teorija in praksa 34 (1): 30–38.
Austin, John L. 1990. Kako napravimo kaj z besedami. Ljubljana: ŠKUC & Znanstveni inštitut Filozofske fakultete.
Barnard, Malcolm. 2005. Moda kot sporazumevanje. Ljubljana: Založba Sophia.
Barthes, Roland. 1967. Système de la mode. Pariz: Éditions du Seuil [eng. 1983. The Fashion System. Berkeley : University of California Press].
Barthes, Roland. 1990. Retorika Starih / Elementi semiologije. Ljubljana: Studia humanitatis & ŠKUC, Filozofski inštitut Filozofske fakultete.
Bašić Hrvatin, Sandra in Marko Milosavljević. 2001. Medijska politika v Sloveniji v devetdesetih: Regulacija, privatizacija, koncentracija in komercializacija medijev. Ljubljana: Mirovni inštitut.
Bottomore, Tom. 1993. Elites and Society. London and New York: Routledge.
Bourdieu, Pierre. 2002. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press.
Bourdieu, Pierre. 1994. Raisons pratiques: Sur la théorie de l'action. Pariz: Éditions du Seuil.
Koenen-Iter, Žak. 2005. Sociologija elita. Beograd: Clio [orig. 2004. Sociologie des élites. Paris: Armand Colin].
Davis, Fred. 1992. Fashion, Culture and Identity. Chicago: The Chicago University Press.
Garber, Marjorie, Jann Matlock and Rebecca L. Walkowitz. 1993. Media Spectacles. New York and London: Routledge.
Goffman, Erving. 1959. The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life. New York: Anchor Books.
Higley, John (ed.) 1998. Postcommunist Elites and Democracy in Eastern Europe. London: Macmillan.
Kellner, Douglas. 2003. Media spectacle. New York and London: Routledge.
Kramberger, Anton in Urban Vehovar. 2000. "Regime Change and Elite Dynamics in Slovenia during the 1990s: What Can the Elite Reproduction Rates Tell Us?". V. Mechanisms of Social Differentiation in Slovenia: tematska številka Družboslovnih razprav, Anton Kramberger (ur.), 16/32, 143–180. Ljubljana: Fakulteta za družbene vede in Slovensko sociološko društvo.
Luthar, Breda. 1998. Poetika in politika tabloidne kulture. Ljubljana: Znanstveno in publicistično središče.
Luthar, Breda. 2002. Boj za okus in moralno odličnost: Tipologija vrednotnih habitusov. Družboslovne razprave 18 (39): 87–108.
Luthar, Breda. 2003. Produkcija lokalne slave. Teorija in praksa 40 (2): 287–312.
Luthar, Breda in Samo Kropivnik. 2004. Država svetovljanov in dežela lokalcev: Tipologija kulturnih razredov v Sloveniji. Teorija in praksa 41 (5-6): 921–946.
McQuail, Denis. 1992. Media Performance. London: Sage.
Medica, Karmen. 2007. Integracijski multikulturalizem ali multikulturnost integracije. Monitor ISH 9 (2): 77–90.
Praprotnik, Tadej. 2012. Procesi upomenjanja osmišljanja sveta in konstrukcija identitete. Monitor ISH 14 (1): 75–115.
Todorović, Aleksandar. 1980. Sociologija mode. Niš: Gradina.
Velimirović, Danijela. 2006a. Moda, ideologija i politika: odevanje Jovanke Broz. Antropologija 1: 50–60.
Velimirović, Danijela. 2006b. Kulturna biografija grandiozne mode: priča o kolekciji Vitraž Aleksandra Joksimovića. Etno-antropološki problemi 1 (2): 91–104.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.